:root{--bg:#F7F2E5;--bg2:#F1E8CE;--paper:#FFFFFF;--paper2:#F1E8CE;--ink:#2A211A;--cream:#2A211A;--mut:#8a7f6a;--mutd:#6f695f;--brass:#C19B2D;--terra:#A34A2A;--line:#E3D8BC;--linep:#E3D8BC}
*{margin:0;padding:0;box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);line-height:1.7;font-weight:300;font-size:16.5px;overflow-x:hidden}
h1,h2,h3,.dsp{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-weight:400;line-height:1.05;letter-spacing:.01em}
h1 em,h2 em,.dsp em{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-weight:500}
h1{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,9vw,6.5rem)}
h2{font-size:clamp(2rem,5.5vw,3.8rem);margin-bottom:.5em}
h3{font-size:1.45rem;line-height:1.2}
em,.ital{font-style:italic;font-weight:340}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}
.wrap{max-width:1240px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 22px}
.narrow{max-width:780px}
.kick{font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.42em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terra);margin-bottom:18px;font-weight:500}
.hero .kick{color:#EBCF8E}
/* NAV */
nav{position:fixed;top:0;left:0;right:0;z-index:100;mix-blend-mode:difference}
.nav-in{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:76px}
.logo{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.35rem;letter-spacing:.3em;color:#fff}
.logo img{height:44px;width:auto}
.logo b{color:#fff;font-weight:400}
.menu-d{display:flex;gap:30px;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#fff}
.menu-d a{opacity:.85;transition:.25s}
.menu-d a:hover{opacity:1}
.burger{display:none;background:none;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer;padding:10px}
@media(max-width:960px){.menu-d{display:none}.burger{display:block}}
/* overlay menu */
.ovl{position:fixed;inset:0;background:var(--bg);z-index:120;display:none;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;padding:8vw}
.ovl.open{display:flex}
.ovl a.big{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:clamp(2rem,8vw,4.6rem);line-height:1.16;color:var(--cream);transition:.25s}
.ovl a.big:hover{color:var(--brass);font-style:italic}
.ovl .x{position:absolute;top:26px;right:26px;background:none;border:0;color:var(--cream);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer;padding:10px}
.ovl .sub{margin-top:34px;color:var(--mut);font-size:.75rem;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;display:flex;gap:24px;flex-wrap:wrap}
/* HERO */
.hero{position:relative;min-height:100svh;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden}
.hero.small{min-height:74svh}
.hero img.bg{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:center 35%;z-index:-2;filter:saturate(.88) contrast(1.04)}
.hero{color:#fff}
.hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(42,33,26,.22),rgba(42,33,26,.1) 45%,rgba(42,33,26,.82) 97%);z-index:-1}
.hero .btn{color:#fff;border-color:#EBCF8E}
.hero .btn:hover{background:#fff;border-color:#fff;color:var(--ink)}
.hero-in{padding:0 0 110px;width:100%}
.hero h1 .ln{display:block}
.hero h1 em{color:var(--brass)}
.hero p.sub{max-width:560px;margin-top:22px;color:#d9d3c7;font-size:1.02rem}
.hero .meta{position:absolute;right:22px;bottom:118px;writing-mode:vertical-rl;font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.4em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#cfc9bd;opacity:.75}
@media(max-width:960px){.hero .meta{display:none}.hero-in{padding-bottom:96px}}
/* marquee */
.mq{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;background:rgba(247,242,229,.9);backdrop-filter:blur(6px);overflow:hidden;white-space:nowrap;padding:13px 0;z-index:5}
.mq-in{display:inline-block;animation:mq 38s linear infinite;font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.42em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink)}
.mq-in i{font-style:normal;color:var(--brass);margin:0 22px}
@keyframes mq{from{transform:translateX(0)}to{transform:translateX(-50%)}}
/* buttons */
.btn{display:inline-block;border:1px solid var(--brass);color:var(--ink);padding:15px 36px;font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.28em;text-transform:uppercase;transition:.3s;margin-top:30px;background:transparent}
.btn:hover{background:var(--brass);color:#fff}
.btn.inv{border-color:var(--ink);color:var(--ink)}
.btn.inv:hover{background:var(--ink);color:#fff}
.btn.fill{background:var(--terra);color:#fff;border-color:var(--terra)}
.btn.fill:hover{background:#8a3c21;border-color:#8a3c21}
/* sections */
section{padding:100px 0;position:relative}
section.paper{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}
section.paper .kick{color:#a2743a}
section.paper2{background:var(--paper2);color:var(--ink)}
.chip{font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mutd);border:1px solid var(--linep);padding:6px 14px;display:inline-block;margin-bottom:22px}
.lead{font-size:1.16rem;max-width:720px}
/* editorial index (destinations) */
.dx{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.dx a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:64px 1fr auto;gap:18px;align-items:center;padding:20px 4px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);transition:.25s;position:relative}
.dx .no{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:.95rem;color:var(--brass);font-style:italic}
.dx .nm{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,4.4vw,2.6rem);line-height:1.05;transition:.25s}
.dx .tag{font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mut)}
.dx a:hover .nm{color:var(--brass);font-style:italic;transform:translateX(10px)}
.dx a .pv{position:absolute;right:12%;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%) scale(.94);width:200px;aspect-ratio:3/4;object-fit:cover;opacity:0;transition:.35s;pointer-events:none;z-index:3}
@media(hover:hover){.dx a:hover .pv{opacity:1;transform:translateY(-50%) rotate(2deg)}}
.rel{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(230px,1fr));gap:2px;margin-top:26px}
.rel a{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px;padding:20px 18px;background:rgba(42,33,26,.035);border:1px solid var(--linep);transition:.25s}
.rel a:hover{background:var(--brass);border-color:var(--brass);transform:translateY(-3px)}
.rel .nm{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.12rem;line-height:1.15}
.rel .tag{font-size:.58rem;letter-spacing:.28em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mutd)}
.rel a:hover .nm,.rel a:hover .tag{color:#fff}
.gg{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(300px,1fr));gap:26px}
.gcard{display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--linep);transition:.3s}
.gcard img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover}
.gcard .k{font-size:.6rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--brass);padding:18px 20px 0}
.gcard .h{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.42rem;line-height:1.14;padding:10px 20px 0}
.gcard .rd{font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mutd);padding:16px 20px 20px;margin-top:auto}
.gcard:hover{transform:translateY(-5px);border-color:var(--brass);box-shadow:0 18px 44px rgba(42,33,26,.12)}
.toc{margin:34px 0 44px;padding:24px 26px;background:var(--paper2);border-left:3px solid var(--brass)}
.toc ol{margin:12px 0 0;padding-left:20px}
.toc li{margin:6px 0}
.toc a{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.toc a:hover{color:var(--brass)}
.prose h2{scroll-margin-top:100px}
section.paper .dx{border-color:var(--linep)}
section.paper .dx a{border-color:var(--linep)}
section.paper .dx .tag{color:var(--mutd)}
/* galleria justified in ordine cronologico */
/* Galleria a colonne invece che a righe giustificate.
   Le righe giustificate stanno bene solo se le foto hanno tutte lo stesso
   formato: mescolando verticali e orizzontali o restano buchi bianchi, o si
   ritagliano le foto per far quadrare le righe — e su un sito di fotografia
   tagliare 41 foto su 43 non e' un compromesso, e' un danno.
   A colonne ogni scatto entra intero, con le sue proporzioni, e non avanza
   spazio. L'ordine si legge per colonna. */
.jgal{columns:4;column-gap:10px;margin-top:44px}
@media(max-width:1100px){.jgal{columns:3}}
@media(max-width:760px){.jgal{columns:2}}
@media(max-width:430px){.jgal{columns:2;column-gap:8px}}
.jgal img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:var(--r,1.5);object-fit:cover;display:block;margin:0 0 10px;break-inside:avoid;cursor:zoom-in;filter:saturate(.92);transition:opacity .25s}
/* --r e' il rapporto larghezza/altezza scritto su ogni foto da
   tools/galleria-proporzioni.mjs. Serve a due cose: far crescere ogni foto in
   proporzione a quanto e' larga, cosi' le righe si chiudono anche mescolando
   verticali e orizzontali (con peso uguale restavano buchi bianchi), e tenere
   il posto giusto mentre l'immagine carica, che toglie il salto della pagina. */
.jgal img:hover{opacity:.88}

/* lightbox / slideshow */
.lb{position:fixed;inset:0;background:rgba(15,13,10,.96);z-index:300;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center}
.lb img{max-width:94vw;max-height:86vh;object-fit:contain}
.lb .nav{position:fixed;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);background:none;border:0;color:#F7F2E5;font-size:2.6rem;cursor:pointer;padding:20px;font-family:serif;opacity:.8}
.lb .nav:hover{opacity:1}
.lb .prev{left:6px}.lb .next{right:6px}
.lb .top{position:fixed;top:14px;right:16px;display:flex;gap:18px;align-items:center;color:#cfc4ae;font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.2em}
.lb .top button{background:none;border:1px solid rgba(247,242,229,.4);color:#F7F2E5;cursor:pointer;padding:8px 16px;font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase}
/* horizontal snap gallery */
.strip{display:flex;gap:14px;overflow-x:auto;scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;padding:44px 22px 8px;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;scrollbar-width:none}
.strip::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.strip img{height:min(64vh,540px);width:auto;max-width:none;object-fit:cover;flex:0 0 auto;scroll-snap-align:center;filter:saturate(.9)}
/* max-width:none e' necessario: la striscia scorre in orizzontale e le foto
   hanno altezza fissa e larghezza automatica. La regola generale img{max-width:100%}
   pero' le stringeva alla larghezza dello schermo lasciando l'altezza intatta, e su
   telefono ogni orizzontale usciva stirata in verticale (346x540 al posto di 810x540).
   object-fit:cover e' la rete di sicurezza se un giorno la larghezza torna vincolata. */
.strip .cap{flex:0 0 240px;display:flex;align-items:center;font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.5rem;font-style:italic;color:var(--mut);scroll-snap-align:center}
/* cards grid (themes/blog) */
.grid{display:grid;gap:20px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(255px,1fr));margin-top:48px}
.card{position:relative;aspect-ratio:3/4;overflow:hidden;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;color:#fff}
.card img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:center 30%;transition:transform .8s cubic-bezier(.2,.6,.2,1);filter:saturate(.85)}
.card:hover img{transform:scale(1.07)}
.card::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,transparent 40%,rgba(10,9,7,.82))}
.card .t{position:relative;z-index:2;padding:22px;font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.55rem;line-height:1.1}
.card .t small{display:block;font-family:'Jost';font-size:.6rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--brass);margin-bottom:8px}
/* blog list editorial */
.bx{border-top:1px solid var(--linep)}
.bx a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:110px 1fr 130px;gap:20px;align-items:baseline;padding:22px 4px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--linep);transition:.2s}
.bx .dt{font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.18em;color:var(--mutd);text-transform:uppercase}
.bx .tt{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:clamp(1.15rem,2.6vw,1.7rem);line-height:1.16}
.bx .rd{font-size:.62rem;letter-spacing:.28em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mutd);text-align:right}
.bx a:hover .tt{font-style:italic;color:#a2743a}
@media(max-width:700px){.bx a{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:6px}.bx .rd{display:none}}
/* article */
article.prose{max-width:760px;margin:0 auto}
article.prose h2{margin-top:1.5em;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,3.4vw,2.2rem)}
article.prose p{margin-bottom:1.15em}
/* ritratto ufficiale a colori: mai piu' alto dello schermo, sempre centrato sul volto */
.ritratto{width:100%;max-height:78vh;object-fit:cover;object-position:44% 34%;border-radius:2px}
@media(max-width:880px){.ritratto{max-height:66vh}}
/* firma autore in fondo agli articoli (ritratto b/n, uso secondario) */
.firma{display:flex;gap:20px;align-items:center;margin:52px 0 8px;padding:22px 24px;
 border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:3px;background:var(--paper)}
.firma img{width:104px;height:139px;flex:0 0 104px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:2px}
.firma .fn{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.18rem;line-height:1.2}
.firma .fr{font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.32em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--terra);margin-bottom:7px}
.firma p{font-size:.9rem;color:var(--mutd);margin:7px 0 0!important;line-height:1.55}
.firma a{border-bottom:1px solid var(--brass)}
@media(max-width:560px){.firma{gap:15px;padding:18px}.firma img{width:76px;height:101px;flex:0 0 76px}}
/* two col */
.two{display:grid;gap:64px;grid-template-columns:1.05fr .95fr;align-items:center}
@media(max-width:880px){.two{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
/* numbers band */
.stats{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:20px;margin-top:52px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.stats div{padding:26px 4px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.stats b{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(2.2rem,6vw,3.6rem);display:block;color:var(--brass)}
.stats span{font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.28em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mut)}
/* venues */
.venues{margin-top:30px;border-top:1px solid var(--linep)}
.venues li{list-style:none;padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--linep)}
.venues b{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-weight:500;font-size:1.3rem;display:block;margin-bottom:4px}
/* faq */
details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--linep);padding:20px 0}
summary{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:1.3rem;cursor:pointer}
details p{margin-top:12px;color:#5a544b}
/* form */
form{display:grid;gap:14px;margin-top:34px}
input,textarea{font-family:inherit;font-size:1rem;padding:15px;border:1px solid var(--linep);background:#fff;width:100%;color:var(--ink)}
.f2{display:grid;gap:14px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}
@media(max-width:640px){.f2{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
/* footer */
footer{background:#2A211A;color:#cfc4ae;padding:80px 0 120px;font-size:.88rem}
footer .logo{color:#F7F2E5}
footer h4{color:#F7F2E5;font-size:.66rem;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:18px;font-weight:500}
.fgrid{display:grid;gap:44px;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr 1.4fr}
@media(max-width:880px){.fgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media(max-width:560px){.fgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
footer li{list-style:none;margin-bottom:9px}
footer a:hover{color:var(--brass)}
.fbig{font-family:'Marcellus',serif;font-size:clamp(2.4rem,8vw,5rem);color:#F7F2E5;line-height:1;margin-bottom:40px}
.fbig em{color:var(--brass);font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif}
.copy{border-top:1px solid rgba(247,242,229,.15);margin-top:56px;padding-top:24px;font-size:.72rem;color:#9c917d;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px}
/* mobile bottom bar */
.bar{position:fixed;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;z-index:110;display:none;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;background:rgba(255,255,255,.94);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.bar a{padding:17px 8px;text-align:center;font-size:.68rem;letter-spacing:.26em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink)}
.bar a.wa{color:#1f7a43;font-weight:500}
.bar a.pv{background:var(--terra);color:#fff;font-weight:500}
@media(max-width:960px){.bar{display:grid}footer{padding-bottom:140px}}
/* reveal */
.rv{opacity:0;transform:translateY(26px);transition:opacity .8s ease,transform .8s ease}
.rv.in{opacity:1;transform:none}
.crumbs{font-size:.64rem;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--mutd);margin-bottom:26px}

/* Testata a piu foto: si alternano con una dissolvenza lenta, cosi la pagina
   non resta sempre uguale. La prima e gia visibile, le altre entrano dopo. */
.hero img.bg{opacity:0;transition:opacity 1.4s ease-in-out}
.hero img.bg.on{opacity:1}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.hero img.bg{transition:none}}